There are plants for all types of gardeners.  There are even orchids for lazy, inattentive house plant people.  Black Jewel Orchids aren’t demanding and require only regular house plant care.  They aren’t spectacular, but are pretty and they let me truthfully say, “Why, yes, I’ve grown orchids for years.”

The plant is Ludisia Discolor, a species of terrestrial orchids.  They grow in soil in tropical forests of southeast Asia.  This means they will grow well in regular potting mix.  The canopy of the forest protects them from sun, so they like indoors or a shaded patio in summer.  They like bright light but not full sun, so you can put them in the north or east-facing window.  Although they like humidity, I’ve found that they do well in the normal climate of kitchen or bedroom without adding humidity.  They can’t take cold weather, so if they are on the patio, bring them in for winter.

Black Jewels don’t like wet feet but have shallow roots, so water lightly about once a week.  I tend to forget this and my plants tolerate getting dry, but are more lush when I make the effort to water more often.  They are not heavy feeders, so one a month with regular house plant fertilizer will do.  I tend to forget this also and my plants do well anyway.  I haven’t had pest problems and I’ve planted in non-sterilized soil, so they seem to be disease resistant.

Much like purple heart, these orchids grow with segments trailing over the pot to get down to the forest floor.  When a segment breaks off, just stick it in soil to propagate.  Although they have shallow roots, they do need heavy pots or to be put into heavy cache pots.  The trailing over the edge habit can go on for several feet if on a taller shelf and can mean that more plant ends up out of the pot than in it.  Then the weight can pull the plant off the windowsill or shelf.

The beauty of Black Jewel Orchids in in the leaves.  These are dark green velvety leaves with pink to maroon and silver pinstripes.  The flowers are very small, white blossoms on stalks.  If Barbie can’t wait for the Banksia roses for her bridal bouquet, she can use these orchids and marry in late January to early February.  Though not as spectacular as other orchid blossoms, the Black Jewel flowers bloom at the right time when you long for blossoms to mark winter’s end.

These orchids are not commonly available although Calloway’s has had them.  They are for sale on the internet, but the best way to get one is free from a propagation addict.

by Marj McClung, Ellis County Master Gardener

Does your back ache after a long day of gardening? Do your knees get sore from kneeling while you plant, weed or harvest your vegetables? Do rabbits routinely nibble your lettuce, beets, or kale? Do you have a limited amount of space for a garden? If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, an elevated garden bed may be the answer to your garden woes.

Gardening in an elevated bed offers a means of planting a productive garden in a small space with less back-breaking work. It’s a cross between a container garden and a raised bed garden and offers the advantages of both gardening methods with the added benefit of being adjusted to a height that enables the gardener to maintain the bed without kneeling, stooping or bending. A traditional raised bed has no bottom and is relatively large, while a container garden has a base to contain the plants and growing media and is much smaller than a raised bed. An elevated garden bed is larger than a container garden while it completely encases the growing media unlike in a traditional raised bed. Since it is raised to a working height, it allows people with physical limitations or mobility issues to grow fruits, vegetables, herbs, succulents and flowers more easily. An elevated garden bed is also ideal for gardeners living in apartments or condos, as long as the bed can be placed in an area that receives adequate sunlight.

Other advantages of elevated garden beds include:

• No weeds
• Easier pest management
• No concerns about poor soil conditions, such as alkaline, rocky soil or oversaturated clay soil
• No rabbits or other furry creatures nibbling on vegetables
• No soilborne fungal diseases

Once you’ve decided to add an elevated garden bed to your space, you should choose the plants you want to grow. The plants selected should have similar light, water, pH and nutrient requirements. Determining the plants you will grow will help you decide on the size and type of raised garden planter that will best suit the needs of the plants you have selected.

The next step is to decide whether to buy or build the planter. Ready-made elevated garden planters are offered for purchase online or at some retail stores. They can also be assembled by a handy DIYer using plans found online. Some key considerations when choosing an elevated garden planter include the following:

• The height of the planter should allow you to work in it comfortably.
• The planter should have adequate drainage.
• Materials used to construct the planter should be rot-resistant, rust-resistant, sturdy, and long-lasting.
• The legs or other structures used to raise the bed should be strong enough to support the weight of moist soil and mature plants.
• The planter should be deep enough to accommodate the plants you plan to grow.

Placement of the elevated bed is also important to ensure the success of the garden. Most vegetables and sun-loving annuals require six to eight hours of direct sunlight, so the bed should be placed in full sun when growing these plants. If shade-loving plants will be grown, the bed should be placed in a shady spot. It’s also a good idea to place your elevated garden bed near an outdoor faucet or rain barrel.

After the planter has been selected and placed, it should be lined with a material that allows for good drainage if the drainage holes are large. This will prevent the growing media from escaping through the drainage holes. The type of growing media used to fill the planter should be selected to meet the water, nutrient, pH and physical support needs of the plants selected.  Vegetables require well-draining, nutrient-rich soilless or soil mixtures, while succulents require sandy mixes for optimal plant health. Fertilizers should also be added to the growing media before planting. Once the growing media and fertilizer have been added to the elevated garden bed, it’s time to add the plants.

After setting up your raised bed and then maintaining the proper water and nutrient levels, you can enjoy a successful garden in your elevated bed with minimal pain and effort.

By Donna Summerlin, ECMG Intern

For more information on growing a variety of plants in containers, including elevated garden planters, check these sites:

https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/files/2010/10/E-545_vegetable_gardening_containers.pdf

https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/misc/container.html

https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/publications/roses/container.html

https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/flowers/daylilies/daylilygardening.html

A garden journal can be a lined notebook or an inexpensive composition book for recording dates, plans and jotting notes about your garden.  It can be a printed journal divided into sections with labels and prompts.  Or, if you are creative, a journal can be embellished with pictures of your garden, colorful notes and detailed layouts.  If you are digital, a document or spreadsheet on your computer or a garden mobile app on your phone or tablet may serve you.

Whichever format you prefer, simple or detailed, a journal can be an important tool for many gardeners to track, manage, and plan their gardens effectively.

Journal topic ideas you may want to consider tracking:

It might serve you best to first try a simple method making notes as you perform activities to determine what you want to track.

Once you get into the habit of documenting then you can invest in a more organized or detailed method.

Happy journaling!

Now, you may wonder why you should start plants from seeds indoors when you can purchase plant starts. Honestly, because it’s therapeutic! It is food for the soul to plant a tiny seed and watch the abundance of food or flowers that a seed can produce.

There are other practical reasons to start plants from seed in the comfort of your garage, kitchen, or greenhouse. Firstly, some seeds will not germinate when planted directly into the ground. Also, starting seeds indoors allows an impatient gardener like me to get a head start with plants that require a long growing season such as tomatoes and peppers. Additionally, starting plants from seeds can be more economical in the long run. Plus, there are many more seed options for plant varieties than transplants available for purchase at the local nurseries and hardware stores. Another therapeutic benefit is when it’s too cold to play outside, starting seeds makes you feel like you’re still gardening!

Let’s start with the back of the seed packet; the most pertinent information is listed there. That tiny print that may require a magnifying glass to read indicates if the seed can be transplanted. If the packet states “do not transplant”, don’t, unless you have time and seeds to probably waste. Some plants, such as bachelor buttons or carrots, just want their roots to be left alone once they’re planted. However, there are seeds like delphinium and lisianthus that prefer, or in some ways demand, to be started indoors, in a controlled environment. These prima donnas need to be pampered with the right temperature and lighting. They prefer not to experience the outdoors until they are old enough and strong enough to stand up for themselves. Other information also found on the packet includes light requirements, planting depth, and plant spacing. Some packets will list how many days to maturity or bloom. That’s my favorite part, how long do I have to wait until I see a return on my investment of time and money? I like that question answered up front whenever possible.

However, don’t let starting plants from seeds intimidate you. The process and equipment can be as simple or elaborate as your personality or budget prefers. In some cases, a sun-filled windowsill may do the trick to get your seeds started. Other options include using heating mats designed for seed starting and grow lights. There are many seed starting kit options available online. A DIY setup was my preference. It includes a stainless-steel rack on wheels, heating mats, and a variety of grow lights that can be adjusted up or down as needed.

Whatever style of seed starting station you decide is best for you, an important practice is to always use clean containers and a sterile planting medium. Peat pots are a good option because the entire pot may be planted into the ground; but before planting, tear off the rim of the pot because the ridge inhibits water from spreading throughout the root area of the plant. Another option for starting seeds is soil blocking which requires less space to start seeds than containers. The blockers are available in a variety of sizes and the size of the seed dictates the size of the block. It is an efficient way to start hundreds of seeds in a minimal amount of space. Lisa Mason-Zeigler is a successful flower farmer and has free video series available on her website on soil blocking. I found the videos very helpful! 

https://thegardenersworkshop.com/seed-starting-saturdays/

When to start the seeds? Again, the packet information is key and will state how many weeks before the first or last frost to start the seeds. What does first and last frost mean? Here in North Texas the first anticipated date in fall that frost will be on the ground is usually between November 16th and December 1st and the last spring frost day can be expected between March 1st and March 16th. However, this is Texas, and you probably already know that the weather is unpredictable. To help determine when to start your seeds, if the packet indicates 6 weeks before the last or first frost, then on a calendar count back six weeks from your first or last frost date based on the Texas AgriLife chart link below to find the date that you need to start your seeds. If your date is one or two weeks overdue, don’t let that stop you from starting the seeds anyway. I have been late planting for as long as three weeks with wonderful success.

horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/publications/flowers_all_seasons/frostfall.htmlhttps://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/publications/flowers_all_seasons/frostspring.html

Whichever potting or seed starting mix you decide to use, it is helpful to add water to the mix first and then fill the containers. There are usually instructions on the back of the package to determine the ratio amounts. If you don’t mix the growing medium and water first, the seed may float to the top of the water. When sowing your seeds, be sure to only plant as deep as the packet indicates. If you plant too deeply the seed may not come up. If the instructions are to surface sow, do just that. Sprinkle seeds on the surface of the potting mix and lightly press the seeds to ensure the seed makes good contact with the soil. Use a spray bottle filled with water to gently moisten the soil and seeds.

It will be necessary to check your plant babies at least once a day but that won’t be difficult for you to remember because, like all babies, you’ll want to check on them multiple times per day, talk to them, admire their growth, and ensure all of their needs are met.

The first set of rounded leaves are cotyledons and are not considered true leaves. The next set of leaves will look like the mature leaves of the plant. At this point, the plants may be given a diluted, liquid fertilizer, such as fish or seaweed emulsions. Be sure to check the label for proper feeding amounts.

Once the plant has grown a set or more of true leaves, they are ready to transition to the outdoors. But wait, don’t plant them out yet! Instead, each day set the plants outside out of direct sun beginning with an hour or so per day to help avoid transplant shock. Increase the amount of time the plants are outside until they’re able to remain outside all day without any adverse reactions. Now they are ready to plant into the ground. Enjoy!

Pecans, and walnuts too, are quite a treat for you and me but they can be toxic for dogs. We found out the hard way.

Our daughter raises Miniature Australian Shepherds and has brought the puppies to our house to run around and play in our yard which has a couple of gigantic pecan trees inside the fence. On one of their visits, we noticed one puppy not doing very well after being there for a while. He was very lethargic, drooling and had vomited, was having tremors, and didn’t seem to be neurologically sound. We thought he was having a seizure. A Vet couldn’t determine what caused it because, honestly, there are too many things it “might” be since puppies are known to play with, and eat, anything.

We did some research and found some disturbing things about pecans and dogs. Pecans have the compound juglone in them which is harmful to dogs (and horses too, by the way). Juglone can cause tummy problems and vomiting.  If there is an aflatoxin or mycotoxin from Aspergillus mold on them, it can cause the symptoms noted above in my daughter’s puppy and also muscle weakness, fever, and seizures.  Mold is more likely in nuts with shells still on, especially in damp conditions.  In general, since pecans are high in fats and oils and dogs can be sensitive to foods with a high degree of fats, these nuts are not good for dogs.

We have older dogs and they eat pecans but have never had one symptom so we are inclined to believe puppies and their immature system might make them more susceptible to being affected. In our case, this beautiful puppy is just fine now. Keeping your dog out of the area where pecans fall is your first and best defense.

American Kennel Club article by Sassafras Lowrey, Nov 1, 2022. 

https://akc.org/expert-advice/nutrition/can-dogs-eat-pecans/
Rogue Pet Science article “Can Dogs Eat Pecans? Here’s what to know”

https://agrilifetoday.tamu.edu/2020/11/09/the-nuts-and-bolts-of-pecans/