By definition, perennial plants live for more than two years. Annual plants complete their life cycle in one year, while biennial plants require two years. There are perennial plants which work well even in the hot North Texas summer. They do need a minimum amount of water but are “flame-proof” in terms of the heat they can withstand. This is a list of tough beauties which have been tested and approved by Texas A&M AgriLife Research.

Red Yucca

Hesperaloe parviflora

Red flowers are attractive to hummingbirds; very low water.

Blue Salvia

Salvia longispicata, “Mystic Spires”

Deep blue flowers attractive to pollinators (Salvia farinacea, “Henry Duelberg”)- blue flowers attractive to pollinators

Verbena

Verbena canadensis, “Princess Dark Lavender”

Butterfly favorite.

Flame Acanthus

Anisacanthus quadrifidis

Flame-orange flowers, woody shrub, hummingbirds!

Hibiscus sp.

Large flowers, red, pink or white; butterflies & pollinators; more water in heat.

Autumn Sage

Salvia greggii

Woody shrub, variety flower colors; trim back after first bloom.

Russian Sage

Perovskia sp

Pale lavendar airy flowers; very low water.

Dwarf Mexican Petunia

Ruellia brittoniana

Low- growing pink, white or purple flowers.

John Fanick Phlox

Phlox paniculata

Deep pink flowers attractive
to butterflies & other pollinators.

Lantana

Lantana camera, “New Gold”

Spreading shrub, pollinator friendly (Lantana montevidensis)- trailng form, purple or white flowers, can freeze. 

Blue Mist

Conoclinum coelestinum

Pale blue button flowers, Queen & other butterflies.

Napier Grass

Pennisetum x “Princess Caroline”

Large-leaved bunch grass dies back in winter.

Turk’s Cap

Malvaviscus arboreus var. drummondii

Sun or shade, white, pink or red flowers.

Rock Rose

Pavonia lasiopetala

Pink flowers, pollinator friendly; reseeds.

Mexican Bush Sage

Salvia leucantha

Purple blossoms late summer to autumn; very low water.

Linheimer Muhly Grass

Muhlenbergia lindheimeri

Bunch grass, drought- tolerant.

For more information on these plants and others, please go to: “Texas Superstars- Strong and Stunning Plants for Texans”, and “Earth-Kind Landscape”.

Article by: Maureen Nitkowski, Ellis County Master Gardener

You’re probably as tired of talking about the hot weather as I am. So, let’s talk about some wonderful plants that love the long hot summers of the Southwest and inspire passion around the world. Chile Peppers (Capsicum spp.) are favored in our gardens, on our plates and even in our medicine cabinets.

Like tomatoes, beans, corn, and avocados; chile peppers are a New World plant, found in South America by Christopher Columbus as he searched for a route to India. He was searching for the home of the black pepper (Piper nigrum), the most expensive spice in the world at that time. Columbus returned to Europe with the holds of his ships filled with plants, seeds and peppers. Within a very short time chile peppers had spread throughout the world as their flavor and heat added zest to bland diets. Even the poorest could easily cultivate this inexpensive flavor enhancer.

There are hundreds of varieties of chile peppers in many shapes, sizes, colors and flavors, from sweet to searingly pungent, hot and sweet at the same time, green and vegetal, earthy, and fruity. Some favorites for the Texas garden are habanero, Anaheim, Hungarian banana, cayenne, Tabasco, Thai, and of course jalapeño. The tiny piquin brought to my garden by the birds that were frequent visitors to the tender perennial plant in the fall deposit the seeds throughout the area. It is a very fiery hot pepper that makes a wonderful condiment when the ripe peppers are added to a bottle of vinegar, aged, and then enjoyed splashed over salads, eggs, and vegetables.

August and September are peak times for harvesting chiles from your garden or shopping our local farmer’s market. My, personal favorite chile is the Hatch, named for Hatch, New Mexico. We first came across this large, mild to hot pepper as we crossed southeastern Colorado several years ago. The markets, roadside stands and parking lots lining highway 50 boasted large tumble roasters grilling up bushels of Hatch chiles. You could catch the aroma long before you saw the grill. In mid-August our local HEB will be grilling up this year’s batch but get there early if you want them hot off the grill. The season for fresh chiles is short but there are many Hatch chile products available throughout the year.

Once you get past the pain of cleaning and seeding chiles you are rewarded with not only the wonderful flavor but also the healthful benefits of chiles. All members of the capsicum family contain large amounts of vitamins C and A. By weight, fresh peppers have about three times as much vitamin C as oranges and as much vitamin A as carrots. The capsaicin oil that causes your fingers to burn while cleaning them is being studied as a medicine. Capsaicin is the active ingredient of creams for painful skin and nerve conditions including shingles and neuralgia. It is being tested in cream form for diabetic neuropathy, osteoarthritis, and rheumatoid arthritis.

Pepper plants should be planted in the early summer after the soil has become warm. They grow best in loamy soil with organic matter and a little greensand added. Good drainageis important. Water frequently and feed once or twice during the season. A good way to preserve your pepper crop is to blacken the skin on the grill, remove the black and seeds then layer flat between sheets of waxed paper. Place these in zip topped freezer bags and freeze. These packets lay flat, taking up very little room. A few pieces make the base for Chile Rellenos casserole, chopped in salsas and chili, or added to all foods needing a bit of a kick.

Here’s an easy recipe using fresh fruits and peppers found at the Waxahachie Downtown Farmers Market open every Saturday morning through October.

Melon Salsa: Combine 1 cup each, honeydew, cantaloupe, and watermelon seeded and cubed, 2 jalapeno or other hot pepper, seeded and minced, juice of one lime, a small bunch chopped cilantro, mint and basil, salt and pepper to taste. Combine all. Refrigerate overnight for best flavor. Serve with chips, or over fish, shrimp, or chicken.

Article by: Arlene Hamilton, Ellis County Master Gardener

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Blue Star- Wildflower of the Month - Blue Star – Dogbane Family (Apocynaceae) Amsonia spp. Region: 1 through 10 (Ellis Co is in Region 4)Size: 1 – 4 feetBlooms: April – November, Perennial Amsonia is stiffly upright,... Read More →

September in the Garden - “It’s September”… what needs to be done? PLANTING Plant these fall vegetables now: beets, carrots, “greens” (mustard, collard, turnip), kale, lettuce, radishes and spinach. Lawn establishment using warm-season grasses such... Read More →

Ellis County Master Gardeners hosted an informal Meet & Greet for those interested in taking the Intern training for 2023. The group met on Tuesday evening, the 26th, at First Baptist Waxahachie from 5:30 until 7:00 p.m.

If accepted into the Master Gardener program, interns will pay tuition and be required to complete a minimum of 50 hours classroom training and a minimum of 50 hours volunteer work. The program offers instruction in lawn care; ornamental trees and shrubs; insect, disease, and weed management; soils and
Ellis County Master Gardeners hosted an informal Meet & Greet for plant nutrition; vegetable gardening; home fruit production; garden flowers; perennials and annuals; and water conservation.

Classes will begin in September and continue through November 3rd. The morning sessions will be taught virtually by Texas A&M professors zoomed from the Texas Master Gardener Association. Afternoon sessions will be live presentations from local experts.

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service also requires all volunteers who enter the Texas Master Gardener Program be initially screened through the Youth Protection Program and screened every three years thereafter.

Read more about how to become a Master Gardener on this page.

If you are interested in more information please send an email to ellismg@ag.tamu.edu or submit the form below.

Recent Blog Posts:

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How to Help Monarchs - Monarch butterflies have been in a steady decline for years and recently the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) classified the monarch as endangered. Habitat loss, climate change,... Read More →

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There are many hardy hibiscus varieties that provide summer blossoms for our enjoyment. These are the rose mallows, Rose of Sharon, Altheas, and Confederate roses that graced our grandmothers’ gardens and delight us today. One, because of the star shape of its flowers stands out.

In white or red, the Hibiscus coccineus or Texas Star Hibiscus has large flowers (3-4 inches) waving 3 to
6 feet in the air. Unlike other hibiscus, the
petals are separated and narrow, making a perfect “Lone Star”. Each flower lasts only a day. This plant will bloom from late June through October, attracting hummingbirds and butterflies. It may also attract law enforcement since the leaves bear a resemblance to marijuana.

Grow Texas Star Hibiscus in soil with good drainage. It does best in a sunny location. It will likely need supplemental irrigation during the heat of our summers. The plant is winter hardy but benefits from extra mulch to protect the roots. Foliage will die back with cold weather, but it is best to leave it and prune back in early spring before new growth starts. Lightly fertilize in spring or early summer.

The plant produces seed pods which can be planted in early spring. )You can also propagate Texas Star Hibiscus from cuttings or by dividing large clumps of the plant.

Article by Marj McClung, Ellis County Master Gardener

“It’s August”… what needs to be done?

PLANTING

• Plant these fall vegetables early in the month: beans, cucumbers and squash. Follow up late in the month with transplants of broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower. Acclimate transplants to full sun before planting. Water immediately after planting.
• Plant bluebonnet and other spring wildflowers starting this month. Select a sunny, well-drained area with minimal vegetation. If planting into existing vegetation, mow area as short as possible; then lightly disturb with a disk or rake. Drag seeded area to ensure good seed-soil contact.
• Plant fall-flowering bulbs such as spider lily, naked lady lily, rain lily, oxblood lily and fall crocus. Place in the ground twice as deep as the diameter of the bulb.
• Dig and divide daffodils, daylilies, iris, lirope, oxalis, and other spring-flowering perennials.

FERTILIZING AND PRUNING

• Caladiums require plenty of water if they are to remain lush and active until fall. Fertilize with 21-0-0 at the rate of 1/3 to 1/2 pound per 100 square feet of bed area and water thoroughly.
• Plants with yellowed leaves and dark green veins may be suffering from iron deficiency. Apply an iron/sulfur product.
• Prune bush roses by removing dead canes and weak, spindly growth. Cut back tall, vigorous bushes to about 30 inches. Then apply a complete fertilizer and water in for beautiful fall blooms.
• Pinch flowers from coleus, basil, mint, caladiums, and other plants where flower buds and flowers stop production of new foliage.

GARDEN WATCH

• By now you know the real winners and losers in your landscape. Replace the “losers” with a Texas Superstar^®. These plants have been tested and proven to be outstanding performers under our growing conditions. Visit  http://www.TexasSuperstar.com for a list of these amazing stars.
• Control fire ants in your lawn with mound treatments, as opposed to baits, since ants are foraging less now. Organic insecticides such as pyrethrins and spinoza can be sprinkled on or drenched into the mound.
• Continue to follow the “Homeowners Fruit and Nut Spray Schedule” to protect pecan trees against pecan weevils and hickory shuckworms, and to control peach tree borers on peach and plum trees.
• Order spring-flowering bulbs for planting in November and December. Remember ‘biggest is best’ in regard to bulb size. Be aware of “bargain” bulbs as they may be small or of inferior quality.

EXTREME GARDENING TOPICS:

Extreme Chemical Usage — In 2001 the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimated that Americans used around 888 million pounds of conventional pesticides. these include: insecticides, fungicides, herbicides and rodenticides. An IPM or Integrated Pest Management system can help reduce the amount of pesticides we use. The goal of IPM is not to eradicate pests, but to eliminate pest problems by strengthening and stabilizing the landscape so that conditions are more favorable for plants than pests. This balance is achieved by employing a combination of practices to prevent or avoid pest problems rather than treating them once they occur. For more information go to https://ipm.tamu.edu./

Original article by: Monty Grearner

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Water Restrictions. These are a gardener’s worst nightmare, right? I started nursing my seeds in January just to watch the poor pepper and tomato plants drop their leaves and turn brown when I stopped watering during voluntary water restrictions. Then- when I misunderstood the next level of restrictions, my water was temporarily shut off. How Rude.

But wait- water restrictions do serve a purpose. Growing up on a shallow well, I learned early on that you can run out of water. Pumps can burn out if they run too long. The city of Gunther Tx, located in Grayson county, has issued a water emergency asking its residents to stop all outdoor watering in an attempt to avoid running out of water. An emergency order was released in Maypearl, Tx, on July 21st, halting all outdoor watering due to the “dangerously low” water levels in the storage tanks. You can check the Texas Commission on Environmental Quality website for a list of public water systems that have reported restrictions or check with your water provider.

Water shortages are no joke. But there are things we can do now and in the future to help us manage our landscapes during a drought.

What to do now:

1. Assess the situation

• What plants do you have? Which ones will go dormant and come back vs. which ones will not return if they die? What is the financial investment in the plants?

2. Prioritize

• My vegetable garden is already gone. The St. Augustine I foolishly sodded in a full sun- no irrigation- zone has died. The Bermuda grass will come back no problem. But my new fruit trees, citrus trees, and Shumard Oak I planted this year take priority. If I can use water- these will be the ones I try and save.

3. Use Gardening best practices.

• Mulch. As a somewhat lazy gardener- I never got around to mulching my trees. I go out each morning and check and see if they need water when I check on my chickens. Then- I water. However, I am restricted to watering one time a week now. How will I keep these trees already showing stress alive in the extreme heat and drought? Mulch is a great place to start. And it will probably save me money compared to how much I spent on watering.

• Water early or late in the day to reduce water loss through evaporation.
• Use drip systems or soaker hoses. I can no longer be lazy and put my sprinkler on my oak tree. I went to the local big box store and picked up a short soaker hose to wrap around the tree. This is best practice anyway. I’m getting water to the exact place I need it, and the slow watering rate will help as well. Now the water is actually going to the tree instead of straight through the cracks in my blackland prairie clay soil.

4. Relocate or Shade.

• I have moved potted trees I am trying to keep alive into partially shaded areas. My fence blocks the west sun for a few feet starting at about 5:00. Sheltering my plants in the evening may be just enough to help keep them alive.
• Erect shade. If time and budget aren’t a problem, you can add shade cloth above plants and bushes you want to save- and animals. We have attached shade fabric around our chicken run to help them stay cool. You can do the same for your plants.

5. Gray Water Recycling

• My great-grandmother grew up during the great depression. It left scars on her life and a few odd practices. Why were there bowls in all the sinks that captured the water when you washed your hands? And buckets in the shower? I no longer think this is odd. I now have a bucket in my shower capturing the water that comes out of the faucet while waiting for the water to warm up. I get about 1/2 gallon of fresh water each time I shower. This is just enough that I can keep the citrus trees on my porch alive. Can I get the rest of my family to do this? Probably not, but that 1/2 gallon daily may save my investment in the citrus trees.
  
• You can also recycle kitchen water. I set a bucket by the kitchen sink to empty the kids’ water bottles in before I wash them. I can also save water from pasta and soaking dishes. “Some detergents may have a high salt content in the form of sodium, chloride or boron, which could potentially ‘burn’ a plant,” I’m not great about tracking what soaps I can and can’t put in my garden, so I avoid the soapy sink water. I make a trip to the apple trees each day to empty my kitchen water savings.
• Get creative. Are there other places you can save water from?

6. Other options?

• There are a lot of products on the market claiming to help. I have ordered a few to test myself. Rings that go around trees and slowly drain water over 8 hours. 30-day tree watering rings. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of data to support whether these will help or not. I’m desperate to keep my plants alive and am willing to experiment a bit, knowing they may or may not be of help.

What should you do to plan ahead for droughts? Let’s talk about that next month. In the meantime, check out WaterSmart and Earth-Kind from Texas A&M to help you brainstorm how to build drought-tolerant landscapes. Another great resource is waterisawesome.com which provides outdoor watering tips and alerts.

Maybe these tips will help you think creatively about how to conserve water and take care of your garden during these dry times. Check regularly with your water provider or municipality- as water restrictions are frequently changing. Everyone can do their part to help save this precious resource.

Resources:

• List of Texas PWSs Limiting Water Use to Avoid Shortages. (2022). Texas Commission on Environmental Quality. https://www.tceq.texas.gov/drinkingwater/trot/droughtw.html
• WaterSmart Landscapes for the Upper Texas Gulf Coast | Teaching, Research, Extension and Service. (2022). Tamu.edu. https://watersmart.tamu.edu/
• Schattenberg, P. (2012, December 7). Can gray water keep Texas landscapes green? – AgriLife Today. AgriLife Today. https://agrilifetoday.tamu.edu/2012/12/07/gray-water-landscapes/
• Russell, A. (2022, July 14). Tips for gardeners during a Texas heat wave – AgriLife Today. AgriLife Today. https://agrilifetoday.tamu.edu/2022/07/14/tips-for-gardeners-during-a-texas-heat-wave/
• Efficient Use of Water in the Garden and Landscape – Earth-Kind® Landscaping Earth-Kind® Landscaping. (2022). Tamu.edu. https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/earthkind/drought/efficient-use-of-water-in-the-garden-and-landscape/
• Home. (2022). Water Is Awesome. https://waterisawesome.com/
  ‌

Recent Blog Posts:

GARDEN GUILT- Part Three - Gardening is not supposed to be depressing. I felt like a garden slacker;I could only see the jobs I hadn’t finished, and it wasn’t fun anymore. Until I Found the... Read More →

How to Help Monarchs - Monarch butterflies have been in a steady decline for years and recently the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) classified the monarch as endangered. Habitat loss, climate change,... Read More →

The Root Less Traveled - Here are some “quick wins” for the fall garden. These seeds are fast germinators, they mature quickly and, some chilly nights will actually enhance their flavor. There’s no need to... Read More →

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Blue Star- Wildflower of the Month - Blue Star – Dogbane Family (Apocynaceae) Amsonia spp. Region: 1 through 10 (Ellis Co is in Region 4)Size: 1 – 4 feetBlooms: April – November, Perennial Amsonia is stiffly upright,... Read More →

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Download PDF: Fall Planting Guide North Central Texas

“It’s July”… What needs to be done

PLANTING

• Plant tomatoes and peppers from 4-inch pots. Visit http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable  for recommended varieties.
• Early July is the time to plant small and medium pumpkins for a Halloween harvest.
• Plant heat-tolerant annuals that have been acclimated to hot, sunny conditions. This includes moss rose, purslane, trailing lantana, purple fountain grass, firebush and copper plants.
• Lawn grasses can be planted this month, but you will need to water twice daily for short intervals to keep soil surface moist until the grass has established good roots, usually in two to three weeks.

FERTILIZING AND PRUNING

• Fertilize plants that bloom on new growth, such as crape myrtles, tropical hibiscus and roses with a high-nitrogen fertilizer to promote late-summer growth and fall blooms. Apply the same fertilizer to boost summer annuals and fall-flowering perennials.
• Light pruning of erratic spring growth may be done to maintain the natural form. Dead and diseased wood from trees and shrubs should be removed. Major pruning should be postponed until mid-winter.
• Deadhead all blooming plants. Remove dead leaves and spent blooms from container plants.

GARDEN WATCH

• Be a “plant health” detective! Plants respond in various ways to heat and drought stress. These symptoms are often misdiagnosed as an insect or disease problem. Correctly identify the problem before turning to a pesticide.
• Galls on leaves of oaks, hackberries and other trees are caused by many species of gall-forming insects, and are result of the female stinging the leaf tissues as she lays her eggs. Galls are harmless since the insect doesn’t feed on plant tissues.
• Watch for lawn pests. Dry, light-colored areas in sunny parts of St. Augustine are probably the result of chinch bugs (small black insects with a white diamond on their backs). Apply Merit (imidacloprid) or other labeled insecticide. Grub worms are the culprits if the turf turns brown and easily comes up when pulled on. Treat with a granular insecticide.
• Rapid death of established landscape plants and orchard trees during the summer may signify the presence of cotton root rot, a soil-borne fungal disease common in our calcareous clay soils. Since there is no effective control, verification by the Plant Disease Diagnostic Lab at Texas A&M (http://plantclinic.tamu.edu) will help you know what plants can be used as replacements.

EXTREME GARDENING TOPICS: 

Extreme Pest Outbreak — The hot dry summer of 2018 brought on an abundance of insect problems. Landscapers noticed one bug being more “buggy” than usual. The wooly aphid is a small reddish-purplish, wingless or winged insect covered with wooly, bluish-white wax masses making them look “wooly.” Masses of these insects infest the underside of leaves causing the leaves to turn pale green and curl.  Heavily infested trees become stunted and may die. Their target of choice: hackberry, apple, hawthorn, mountain ask, elm, pear and quince.

Original Article By: Monty Grearner