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Birdbaths 101

February 1, 2023 by elliscountymastergardeners

Are you thinking about adding a bird bath to your landscape?  If you enjoy bird watching, then a properly placed and maintained bird bath may be a good idea!  Here are some simple tips to consider before taking that plunge. 

Location: Where to place your birdbath is very important. Birds like to feel protected and that protection comes from cover in the form of trees, shrubs, and other structures.  Look for a space at least 30 feet from windows and away from feeders, which keeps it cleaner.  Position your bird bath in an open area but within 10 feet of a shrub or tree which will provide an escape route if needed.  

 Keeping your birdbath out of direct sunlight will help reduce the loss of water from evaporation.  Finding a cooler, shadier spot will prevent the formation of algae as well as prevent insects from laying their eggs on the warmer water’s surface.  If you don’t have a fully shaded area, then finding a place that has shade during the mid to late afternoon is the next best place.  

Size: While some smaller bird baths are cute and add architectural interest to your landscape, larger bird baths with wider bowls are best to attract your fluffy feathered guests.  The bowl doesn’t need to be very deep.  Just one to two inches deep is enough for most songbirds.  If your bird bath bowl is deeper than 2 inches, then add a large enough stone to the bath where the birds can stand.  Also look for somewhat smooth surfaces but not overly smooth and slippery which could make it difficult for secure footing.  

Maintenance: One of the best things you can do to attract more birds to your bird bath is to keep the water fresh.  Include refreshing your bird bath water along with your regular yard watering routine. 

Clean your bird bath every 1-3 days, depending on the amount of activity and use you observe at your bird bath.  Simply dump the remaining water and refill with fresh water.  If your bird bath bowl has a lot of textured surfaces, then use a scrub brush or pressurized water hose to remove built up debris.  Regular dumping of the water will also help prevent mosquitoes from breeding in the water. Remember that birds can carry pathogens so be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling bird baths, feeders, or nesting boxes.  It’s also a good idea to keep a designated bird bath scrub brush that you clean well after each use.  To keep your bird bath fresher, use one-part regular distilled vinegar in nine parts of fresh clean water for your rinse and scrub routine.  

Some authorities suggest sterilizing your birdbath at least twice a year.  For additional information on this, you can check out this website for in depth instructions: How To Clean a Bird Bath Correctly & Safely [Easy Method] (wildyards.com) 

Another part of maintenance is preventing algae growth in your bird bath. Submerge a piece of copper tubing in the water which is not harmful to birds and will slow the growth of algae in the birdbath water. Placement, as suggested earlier, in a shaded or partly shaded area will further reduce algae growth. 

Temperature regulation is another key aspect of bird bath maintenance. During colder months, adding a heater is a very good idea.  Even something to keep the water moving will help slow the freezing process.  During hotter seasons, add a block of ice to your bird bath water. The ice will float and melt as the day heats up.  Birds will definitely enjoy the cool sip of water as well as a cool dip! 

Hopefully these tips will help you and your yard birds have a successful and beautiful friendship! 

Elizabeth Norris, Ellis County Master Gardener Intern

Filed Under: Newsletter, Uncategorized

Black Jewel Orchids

February 1, 2023 by elliscountymastergardeners

There are plants for all types of gardeners.  There are even orchids for lazy, inattentive house plant people.  Black Jewel Orchids aren’t demanding and require only regular house plant care.  They aren’t spectacular, but are pretty and they let me truthfully say, “Why, yes, I’ve grown orchids for years.”

The plant is Ludisia Discolor, a species of terrestrial orchids.  They grow in soil in tropical forests of southeast Asia.  This means they will grow well in regular potting mix.  The canopy of the forest protects them from sun, so they like indoors or a shaded patio in summer.  They like bright light but not full sun, so you can put them in the north or east-facing window.  Although they like humidity, I’ve found that they do well in the normal climate of kitchen or bedroom without adding humidity.  They can’t take cold weather, so if they are on the patio, bring them in for winter.

Black Jewels don’t like wet feet but have shallow roots, so water lightly about once a week.  I tend to forget this and my plants tolerate getting dry, but are more lush when I make the effort to water more often.  They are not heavy feeders, so one a month with regular house plant fertilizer will do.  I tend to forget this also and my plants do well anyway.  I haven’t had pest problems and I’ve planted in non-sterilized soil, so they seem to be disease resistant.

Much like purple heart, these orchids grow with segments trailing over the pot to get down to the forest floor.  When a segment breaks off, just stick it in soil to propagate.  Although they have shallow roots, they do need heavy pots or to be put into heavy cache pots.  The trailing over the edge habit can go on for several feet if on a taller shelf and can mean that more plant ends up out of the pot than in it.  Then the weight can pull the plant off the windowsill or shelf.

The beauty of Black Jewel Orchids in in the leaves.  These are dark green velvety leaves with pink to maroon and silver pinstripes.  The flowers are very small, white blossoms on stalks.  If Barbie can’t wait for the Banksia roses for her bridal bouquet, she can use these orchids and marry in late January to early February.  Though not as spectacular as other orchid blossoms, the Black Jewel flowers bloom at the right time when you long for blossoms to mark winter’s end.

These orchids are not commonly available although Calloway’s has had them.  They are for sale on the internet, but the best way to get one is free from a propagation addict.

by Marj McClung, Ellis County Master Gardener

Filed Under: Newsletter, Uncategorized

Elevated Raised Beds Make Gardening Less of a Chore

February 1, 2023 by elliscountymastergardeners

Does your back ache after a long day of gardening? Do your knees get sore from kneeling while you plant, weed or harvest your vegetables? Do rabbits routinely nibble your lettuce, beets, or kale? Do you have a limited amount of space for a garden? If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, an elevated garden bed may be the answer to your garden woes.

Gardening in an elevated bed offers a means of planting a productive garden in a small space with less back-breaking work. It’s a cross between a container garden and a raised bed garden and offers the advantages of both gardening methods with the added benefit of being adjusted to a height that enables the gardener to maintain the bed without kneeling, stooping or bending. A traditional raised bed has no bottom and is relatively large, while a container garden has a base to contain the plants and growing media and is much smaller than a raised bed. An elevated garden bed is larger than a container garden while it completely encases the growing media unlike in a traditional raised bed. Since it is raised to a working height, it allows people with physical limitations or mobility issues to grow fruits, vegetables, herbs, succulents and flowers more easily. An elevated garden bed is also ideal for gardeners living in apartments or condos, as long as the bed can be placed in an area that receives adequate sunlight.

Other advantages of elevated garden beds include:

  • No weeds
  • Easier pest management
  • No concerns about poor soil conditions, such as alkaline, rocky soil or oversaturated clay soil
  • No rabbits or other furry creatures nibbling on vegetables
  • No soilborne fungal diseases

Once you’ve decided to add an elevated garden bed to your space, you should choose the plants you want to grow. The plants selected should have similar light, water, pH and nutrient requirements. Determining the plants you will grow will help you decide on the size and type of raised garden planter that will best suit the needs of the plants you have selected.

The next step is to decide whether to buy or build the planter. Ready-made elevated garden planters are offered for purchase online or at some retail stores. They can also be assembled by a handy DIYer using plans found online. Some key considerations when choosing an elevated garden planter include the following:

  • The height of the planter should allow you to work in it comfortably.
  • The planter should have adequate drainage.
  • Materials used to construct the planter should be rot-resistant, rust-resistant, sturdy, and long-lasting.
  • The legs or other structures used to raise the bed should be strong enough to support the weight of moist soil and mature plants.
  • The planter should be deep enough to accommodate the plants you plan to grow.

Placement of the elevated bed is also important to ensure the success of the garden. Most vegetables and sun-loving annuals require six to eight hours of direct sunlight, so the bed should be placed in full sun when growing these plants. If shade-loving plants will be grown, the bed should be placed in a shady spot. It’s also a good idea to place your elevated garden bed near an outdoor faucet or rain barrel.

After the planter has been selected and placed, it should be lined with a material that allows for good drainage if the drainage holes are large. This will prevent the growing media from escaping through the drainage holes. The type of growing media used to fill the planter should be selected to meet the water, nutrient, pH and physical support needs of the plants selected.  Vegetables require well-draining, nutrient-rich soilless or soil mixtures, while succulents require sandy mixes for optimal plant health. Fertilizers should also be added to the growing media before planting. Once the growing media and fertilizer have been added to the elevated garden bed, it’s time to add the plants.

After setting up your raised bed and then maintaining the proper water and nutrient levels, you can enjoy a successful garden in your elevated bed with minimal pain and effort.

By Donna Summerlin, ECMG Intern

For more information on growing a variety of plants in containers, including elevated garden planters, check these sites:

https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/files/2010/10/E-545_vegetable_gardening_containers.pdf

https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/misc/container.html

https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/publications/roses/container.html

https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/flowers/daylilies/daylilygardening.html

Filed Under: Newsletter, Uncategorized

Bug O’ the Month-Cochineal

February 1, 2023 by elliscountymastergardeners

Have you ever noticed a prickly pear cactus with white fuzz on it, especially around the thorns? That’s the tell-tale sign of the presence of cochineal scale bugs. And, while these little guys are unsightly, they hold a secret many people don’t know.

When cochineal are removed from the plant, dried, and crushed they produce a bright red powder which is a popular and safe red dye. Yes, that’s the truth! Some of the foods we eat contain crushed bugs. So does lipstick, and also yarns that are naturally dyed. In foods, just look for Natural Red Dye #4. It also might be named Carmine or Cochineal.

The process of getting dye from cochineal was first developed by the Aztecs. In the early 1500s, when the Spaniards saw the beautiful red color produced by this dye, they began importing it to Europe. It was a huge success. Many attempts were made to bring the cactus and the bugs to Europe to be grown locally. All attempts were met with disaster though; the weather just wasn’t right. So cochineal red dye continued to be imported until the mid-1800s when chemical dyes were developed from coal tar. Today commercial cochineal farming is a relatively small industry.

Adult male cochineal are winged, never eat and die shortly after fertilizing a female’s eggs. The females, meanwhile, insert their needle-like mouth parts directly into the prickly pear cactus and spend their whole lives drinking prickly pear juice and covering themselves in fluffy white, protective wax.

Suppose you have an infested cactus and don’t want to produce your own natural dye for your home spun yarn. You can reduce the damage from high populations of scale insects by applying systemic insecticide products, such as those containing dinotefuran or imidacloprid. Be careful to follow the directions when you use a new-to-you insecticide product. Spray only a part of a larger plant to make sure the insecticide is not toxic to the plant. Symptoms of toxicity include discoloration or burning on edges, tips of leaves and growing points. Thus far, there has been little research conducted on best practices for insecticide use on Texas landscape succulents and the Texas AgriLife Extension Service cannot ensure the effects or effectiveness of insecticide treatments.

by Kim Rainey, ECMG

For further information:

https://texascooppower.com/the-bugs-that-make-you-see-red/

https://citybugs.tamu.edu/2020/02/26/a-prickly-situation/

https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/648050/cochineal-insect-red-dye

Filed Under: Bug O' the Month, Newsletter, Uncategorized

Should You Keep a Garden Journal?

February 1, 2023 by elliscountymastergardeners

A garden journal can be a lined notebook or an inexpensive composition book for recording dates, plans and jotting notes about your garden.  It can be a printed journal divided into sections with labels and prompts.  Or, if you are creative, a journal can be embellished with pictures of your garden, colorful notes and detailed layouts.  If you are digital, a document or spreadsheet on your computer or a garden mobile app on your phone or tablet may serve you.

Whichever format you prefer, simple or detailed, a journal can be an important tool for many gardeners to track, manage, and plan their gardens effectively.

Journal topic ideas you may want to consider tracking:

Year-over-year records
⇒ Key dates from your monthly calendar
⇒ Garden improvement and plant expenses
⇒ Plant propagation
⇒ Plant successes and failures

 

Monthly Calendar
⇒ Rainfall and first/last frost dates
⇒ Tasks and activities to perform by month
⇒ Daily high and low temperatures and
     bloom dates

 

Plant Inventory
⇒ Purchase dates and cost
⇒ Botanical names, varieties and requirements
⇒ Seed packet inventory & storage

Landscape sketch and mapping
⇒ Location of plants and trees
⇒ Location of water faucets and sprinklers

 

Pest Control
⇒ Garden pollinators and pests
⇒ Treatments

 

Water management and irrigation
⇒ Sprinkler locations and maintenance
⇒ Watering schedule

 

Lists
⇒ Plants to buy
⇒ Record purchases
⇒ Plants that were successful

 

Soil Amendments and Treatments
⇒ Soil Formulas
⇒ Fertilizer

 

 

It might serve you best to first try a simple method making notes as you perform activities to determine what you want to track.

Once you get into the habit of documenting then you can invest in a more organized or detailed method.

 

Happy journaling!

Filed Under: Newsletter, Uncategorized

Seed Starting

January 17, 2023 by kimrainey

Now, you may wonder why you should start plants from seeds indoors when you can purchase plant starts. Honestly, because it’s therapeutic! It is food for the soul to plant a tiny seed and watch the abundance of food or flowers that a seed can produce.

There are other practical reasons to start plants from seed in the comfort of your garage, kitchen, or greenhouse. Firstly, some seeds will not germinate when planted directly into the ground. Also, starting seeds indoors allows an impatient gardener like me to get a head start with plants that require a long growing season such as tomatoes and peppers. Additionally, starting plants from seeds can be more economical in the long run. Plus, there are many more seed options for plant varieties than transplants available for purchase at the local nurseries and hardware stores. Another therapeutic benefit is when it’s too cold to play outside, starting seeds makes you feel like you’re still gardening!

Let’s start with the back of the seed packet; the most pertinent information is listed there. That tiny print that may require a magnifying glass to read indicates if the seed can be transplanted. If the packet states “do not transplant”, don’t, unless you have time and seeds to probably waste. Some plants, such as bachelor buttons or carrots, just want their roots to be left alone once they’re planted. However, there are seeds like delphinium and lisianthus that prefer, or in some ways demand, to be started indoors, in a controlled environment. These prima donnas need to be pampered with the right temperature and lighting. They prefer not to experience the outdoors until they are old enough and strong enough to stand up for themselves. Other information also found on the packet includes light requirements, planting depth, and plant spacing. Some packets will list how many days to maturity or bloom. That’s my favorite part, how long do I have to wait until I see a return on my investment of time and money? I like that question answered up front whenever possible.

However, don’t let starting plants from seeds intimidate you. The process and equipment can be as simple or elaborate as your personality or budget prefers. In some cases, a sun-filled windowsill may do the trick to get your seeds started. Other options include using heating mats designed for seed starting and grow lights. There are many seed starting kit options available online. A DIY setup was my preference. It includes a stainless-steel rack on wheels, heating mats, and a variety of grow lights that can be adjusted up or down as needed.

Whatever style of seed starting station you decide is best for you, an important practice is to always use clean containers and a sterile planting medium. Peat pots are a good option because the entire pot may be planted into the ground; but before planting, tear off the rim of the pot because the ridge inhibits water from spreading throughout the root area of the plant. Another option for starting seeds is soil blocking which requires less space to start seeds than containers. The blockers are available in a variety of sizes and the size of the seed dictates the size of the block. It is an efficient way to start hundreds of seeds in a minimal amount of space. Lisa Mason-Zeigler is a successful flower farmer and has free video series available on her website on soil blocking. I found the videos very helpful! 

https://thegardenersworkshop.com/seed-starting-saturdays/

When to start the seeds? Again, the packet information is key and will state how many weeks before the first or last frost to start the seeds. What does first and last frost mean? Here in North Texas the first anticipated date in fall that frost will be on the ground is usually between November 16th and December 1st and the last spring frost day can be expected between March 1st and March 16th. However, this is Texas, and you probably already know that the weather is unpredictable. To help determine when to start your seeds, if the packet indicates 6 weeks before the last or first frost, then on a calendar count back six weeks from your first or last frost date based on the Texas AgriLife chart link below to find the date that you need to start your seeds. If your date is one or two weeks overdue, don’t let that stop you from starting the seeds anyway. I have been late planting for as long as three weeks with wonderful success.

horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/publications/flowers_all_seasons/frostfall.htmlhttps://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/publications/flowers_all_seasons/frostspring.html

Whichever potting or seed starting mix you decide to use, it is helpful to add water to the mix first and then fill the containers. There are usually instructions on the back of the package to determine the ratio amounts. If you don’t mix the growing medium and water first, the seed may float to the top of the water. When sowing your seeds, be sure to only plant as deep as the packet indicates. If you plant too deeply the seed may not come up. If the instructions are to surface sow, do just that. Sprinkle seeds on the surface of the potting mix and lightly press the seeds to ensure the seed makes good contact with the soil. Use a spray bottle filled with water to gently moisten the soil and seeds.

It will be necessary to check your plant babies at least once a day but that won’t be difficult for you to remember because, like all babies, you’ll want to check on them multiple times per day, talk to them, admire their growth, and ensure all of their needs are met.

The first set of rounded leaves are cotyledons and are not considered true leaves. The next set of leaves will look like the mature leaves of the plant. At this point, the plants may be given a diluted, liquid fertilizer, such as fish or seaweed emulsions. Be sure to check the label for proper feeding amounts.

Once the plant has grown a set or more of true leaves, they are ready to transition to the outdoors. But wait, don’t plant them out yet! Instead, each day set the plants outside out of direct sun beginning with an hour or so per day to help avoid transplant shock. Increase the amount of time the plants are outside until they’re able to remain outside all day without any adverse reactions. Now they are ready to plant into the ground. Enjoy!

Filed Under: Newsletter, Uncategorized

Puppies and Pecans

January 1, 2023 by elliscountymastergardeners

Pecans, and walnuts too, are quite a treat for you and me but they can be toxic for dogs. We found out the hard way.

Our daughter raises Miniature Australian Shepherds and has brought the puppies to our house to run around and play in our yard which has a couple of gigantic pecan trees inside the fence. On one of their visits, we noticed one puppy not doing very well after being there for a while. He was very lethargic, drooling and had vomited, was having tremors, and didn’t seem to be neurologically sound. We thought he was having a seizure. A Vet couldn’t determine what caused it because, honestly, there are too many things it “might” be since puppies are known to play with, and eat, anything.

We did some research and found some disturbing things about pecans and dogs. Pecans have the compound juglone in them which is harmful to dogs (and horses too, by the way). Juglone can cause tummy problems and vomiting.  If there is an aflatoxin or mycotoxin from Aspergillus mold on them, it can cause the symptoms noted above in my daughter’s puppy and also muscle weakness, fever, and seizures.  Mold is more likely in nuts with shells still on, especially in damp conditions.  In general, since pecans are high in fats and oils and dogs can be sensitive to foods with a high degree of fats, these nuts are not good for dogs.

We have older dogs and they eat pecans but have never had one symptom so we are inclined to believe puppies and their immature system might make them more susceptible to being affected. In our case, this beautiful puppy is just fine now. Keeping your dog out of the area where pecans fall is your first and best defense.

 

American Kennel Club article by Sassafras Lowrey, Nov 1, 2022. 

https://akc.org/expert-advice/nutrition/can-dogs-eat-pecans/
Rogue Pet Science article “Can Dogs Eat Pecans? Here’s what to know”

https://agrilifetoday.tamu.edu/2020/11/09/the-nuts-and-bolts-of-pecans/

Filed Under: Newsletter, Uncategorized

It’s Time to Plant Wildflowers

October 8, 2022 by elliscountymastergardeners

How To Begin

Site Selection

Wildflowers need about eight hours of direct sun each day. They also need good drainage. A long-term wildflower area will at times look “weedy”, but plants need to set and drop seed for the next year’s flowers. Place the wildflower bed where “natural” looks good. You will also need access to water for times when rainfall is sparce, especially when seeds are germinating and becoming established.

Soil Preparation

Soils should not be heavily compacted (you may need to till) and may need amendments to provide good drainage. Existing plants including grasses need to be removed. Wildflowers don’t compete well with grasses or clover. Rake all debris out of the wildflower bed before planting.

Timing the Sowing:

Fall, mid-September to mid-November, is the best time to sow wildflower seed in our area. Some seeds will germinate quickly to establish roots while others will not germinate until spring. You can wait until spring to sow (mid-February through mid-April), however, be ready for dry weather. After germination, wildflower seedlings may need supplemental watering.

Sowing

Mix seed with sand, potting soil or perlite (4 parts carrier to 1 part seed) for even distribution of seed. Sow half evenly over the bed, then sow the remaining half perpendicular to the initial sowing. Walk over the bed or roll it to press seed into the soil. It is alright if some of the seeds are still visible.

Wildflowers for Spring

 

Bluebonnet (Lupinus texensis): The state flower of Texas is a lovely blue and enriches soil as a legume. Seed is designed to germinate over several years, so for good germination, get seed that has been scarified for more flowers in the first year of planting.

Blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium langloisii): This member of the iris family has blue flowers growing in a bunch with grassy foliage.

False dandelion (Pyrrhopappus pauciflorus): This flower is a pale yellow compared to the gold of dandelions and has black anther tubes in the center of the flower. It is a morning flower that doesn’t last long after noon.

Horsemint (Monarda citriodora): This plant has flowers circling the stem in layers and looks like a pagoda. It has a strong lemony fragrance from the leaves and is a good nectar source.
Indian Blanket, Firewheel (Gaillardia pulchella): The flower petals of deep orange with yellow tips makes this a bright display of color. Native bees like it.

Indian paintbrush (Castilleja indivisa): This bright orange flower provides a contrast to Bluebonnet blue. It is a larval host as well as a nectar source.

Mexican hat, Prairie coneflower (Ratibida columnifera): This flower has red-orange petals tipped in yellow that hang down from the long cone in the middle.

Milkweed: Green milkweed (Asclepias viridis) and Antelope Horn milkweed (Asclepias asperula) are the most common milkweeds for our area although others grow here as well. They have white and green flowers and are important host plants for Monarch butterfly caterpillars. They are also good nectar sources.

Plains coreopsis, Golden tickseed (Coreopsis tinctoria): This golden yellow flower with a reddish orange center is an annual but may last several years before dying. It is a nectar source and produces a red dye.

Prairie verbena (Glandularia bipinnatifida): These clusters of purple flowers are a good source of nectar. Individual flowers resemble little gingerbread men.

Wine-cup (Callirhoe involucrata): The goblet shaped flowers grow low to the ground and are a deep pinkish purple.

Showy evening primrose, Pink Ladies (Oenothera speciosa): Opening in late evening, these flowers attract moths and provide early morning color.

Fall Wildflowers (What You Are Seeing Now)

 

Broomweed (Amphiachyris dracunculoides): These small yellow flowers grow on a widely branched stem. Pioneers cut several stems and tied them to a stick for use as a broom. Bees love this plant.

Eryngo, Candelabrum Plant (Eryngium leavenworthii): These are the bright purple prickly cones. Not a thistle, these are a nectar source and seed source for ground birds.

Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis): Sprays of small, golden flowers attract insects each fall. The pollen is too heavy to be windborne. This spreads aggressively by underground runners.

Maximillan Sunflower (Helianthus maximiliani): These sunflowers grow in large colonies and provide nectar for butterflies and bees and seed for birds. The plants put out a chemical to retard growth of other plants near it.

Prairie Agalinis (Agalinis heterophylla) These tubular pink flowers are a good nectar source. The plant is semi-parasitic on roots of nearby plants.

Snow on the Prairie, Snow on the Mountain (Euphorbia bicolor): The white and green seen in fields are modified leaves called bracts. This is a relative of the poinsettia. The flowers are small and in the center. It produces seeds eaten by birds.

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus): These make tall plants with bright yellow flowers that follow the sun. Butterflies and bees love them and the seeds feed birds.

Western Ironweed (Veronia baldwinii): This plant has fuzzy clusters of purple flowers. The name comes from tough stems and rusty colored dried blooms.

Article by: Marj McClung, Ellis County Master Gardener

Resources

  1. aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/wildseed Wildflowers in Bloom site with planting information, seed sources, pictures of wildflowers, etc.
  2. wildflower.org LadyBird Johnson Wildflower Center information and pictures of wildflowers for central Texas
  3. aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/flowers/BLUEBONNET.html Information about planting bluebonnets, including planting in Bermuda grass lawns.
  4. aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/flowers/bluebonnet/bluebonnetstory.html
    Bluebonnet lore and fun facts.

Filed Under: Newsletter

Why Consider Planting with Native Plants

October 3, 2022 by elliscountymastergardeners

Where the first settlers came to North Texas in the mid-1800’s they were astounded by the vast prairies of tall grasses and native shrubs and trees; the soil was very rich and was quickly converted to range and row crops. Existing animals including bison were considered as obstacles to progress and also eliminated. When plants, insects, and birds have evolved together over thousands or millions of years they form a supportive relationship, called a Biome, that is adapted to the climate and soil in that region. Over the last 260 years prairie Biome was lost and the plants and animals that depended on it.

Many years ago, I read Rachael Carson’s Silent Spring and became part of the movement to restrict use of commercial pesticides and herbicides. We took it as a call to manage our lawn and gardens using natural methods to protect the environment and to attract butterflies and birds to our yards. Recently, I read Douglas Tallamy’s book Nature’s Best Hope which convinced me that what I also need to do is convert my lawn and gardens to native Blackland prairies by removing non-native plants and replacing them with plants that evolved within the region where I live. Native Insects and birds are declining in number and already several species have become extinct while others are getting close. While imported European honeybees do pollinate crops, most plants are pollinated by native bees, wasps, and flies. Our existence may depend on their continued existence.

There are many examples of large parcels of land that are protected by organizations such as The Nature Conservancy and government established National Parks, National Grasslands, National Monuments, and National Seashores have set aside large tracts of land that protect native forests, prairies, and the animals living within them. While this does help preserve some Biome diversity, those tracts actually consist of a minimal amount of land and are separated by vast distances consisting of paved areas (highways, parking lots, buildings) and monoculture (agriculture and lawns) which do not provide migration avenues or food for native birds and insects. Today, many insects including bees, butterflies, fireflies, and predatory insects are declining dramatically in number, as are many birds.

Saint Augustine and Bermuda grasses are not native to North America and they have seen widespread use in the establishment of lawn turf and grazing pasturage. Today, almost 80% of the plants in your yard evolved in Europe, Africa, South America, and China and they do not support any North America Biome.

It is also becoming more obvious that something is wrong with our global climate and it appears that apparently nothing can be done about loss of habitat, decreasing availability of water/ floods, increasing droughts and decline of pollinators and birds. All these problems seem to be of such a magnitude that an individual can do nothing to prevent or remedy them. Few people can donate a million acres or more to land conservation; however, there is something that everyone can do their own yard, changing one small plot of land (usually under 1/2 acre) to reestablish the integrated Biome web. If homeowners would convert even a piece of their lawn and flowerbed space to native plants, that would represent a huge expanse of land. In fact, some cities have already passed ordinances to eliminate turf grasses and require planting native grasses, flowers, bushes, and trees.

If the environment isn’t enough of a reason to go native, please consider: native plants have evolved to withstand drought which reduces watering (cost of watering); native plants resist native diseases and insect pests (less spraying of pesticides and costs of spraying); native plants thrive on local soils (no fertilizing and costs of chemical fertilizers which poison our waters); native plants require less mowing (less lawn maintenance and fewer greenhouse gases from mowers, edgers and leaf blowers as well as costs); and, finally, native plants have evolved to self-seed.

What I am suggesting is not to till your entire lawn and flower beds under but to dedicate a portion of your yard to a pocket prairie area. Putting this in your backyard might even keep your HOA out of your business. While in the front yard you can plant clusters of native flowers in the beds which look like a deliberate batch of flowers.

If you want to learn how to physically create a pocket prairie, come to the presentation at Lighthouse for Learning at Global High School in Waxahachie on Monday, October 17 at 6:00 pm. Register online at www.WISD.org or call 972 923-4631.

Article by: Rob Franks, Ellis County Master Gardener

 


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Filed Under: Newsletter

Garden Chrysanthemums (Chrysantemum morifolium)

October 3, 2022 by elliscountymastergardeners

Fall is in the air!  Everywhere you look, retail stores and garden centers are adorned with beautiful displays of garden chrysanthemums, often referred to as “mums”.  These plants thrive in our North Texas Fall climate and will flower annually. Mine often produce a colorful show of vibrant flowers both in early Spring and again in Fall before the first heavy frost. Garden mums are available in a wide variety of colors ranging from white to red, yellow, orange, pink, purple and more in many colorful hues. The flowers vary in style including Anemone, Pompom, Daisy, Spider and more. These perennial plants generally last about five seasons before having to be replaced. Chrysanthemums belong to the Asteraceae family which includes many other well-known flowers such as sunflowers, zinnias, and dahlias. This family of flowers has a single flower head with many hundreds of tiny flowers that grow out of one head. 

The history of garden chrysanthemums traces back to early 15th century China where, according to early writings, they were used as a flowering herb thought to have lifegiving powers. The plant was used in teas, tonics, and astringents. The Chinese city of Chu-Hsien (which means Chrysanthemum City) was named in honor of the flower.  Around the 8th century A.D., the chrysanthemum surfaced in Japan where the flower was so well-liked that it appeared as the crest and the Emperor’s official seal. The first chrysanthemums to reach Europe were probably introduced by Dutch explorers during the 18th century. French Huguenots imported a variety of forms from the Dutch and developed Old Purple, one of the basic mums of European gardens. The Old Purple chrysanthemum was introduced to the Americas in 1798 by John Stevens, a Hoboken, New Jersey, nursery man.(1)  Today, mums are enjoyed worldwide.

Garden mums do best when planted in early spring in a well-drained site that receives an abundance of sunlight.  Spacing should be about 24 inches apart to allow the plants to spread and form mounds as they mature.  Plant at a depth equal to the container the plant was purchased in and water thoroughly after planting. Fertilize the plants to encourage development of thick green foliage and enhanced flower production.  Water in dry fertilizer after it is applied.  Fertilizer should not be applied after flower buds appear. As always, follow label instructions.(2) When starting mums indoors from seeds, allow about 10-15 days for the plant to develop before transferring to the ground.  It will take about another 10-12 weeks before the transplants will bud.

Article by: Sharon McIver, Ellis County Master Gardener

References

  1. gertens.com/blog/the-history-of-chrysanthemums
  2.  Rodriguez, David Texas A&M university County Extension Agent-Horticulture for Bexar County. Extension   Education in Bexar County Weekly Newsletter, Plant of the Week, October 2, 2006.

 


Recent Blog Posts

February in the Garden - The cold weather and freezing temperatures at the end of the year damaged grasses, plants and trees across the state. The coldest December in Texas in 40 years left gardeners... Read More →
Children’s Workshop - Come join us March 25th, in the Childrens Workshop, as we get “Wild about Gardening”! We are excited to welcome Scout Woodward, from Texas Discovery Garden, who will be bringing... Read More →
Wildflower of the Month - Prairie Spiderwort – Dayflower Family (Commelinaceae) Tradescantia accidentalis (Britt.) Smyth Region: 1 through 10 (Ellis County is in Region 4) Size: 6 – 36 inches Blooms: February – July, Perennial... Read More →

Should You Keep a Garden Journal? - A garden journal can be a lined notebook or an inexpensive composition book for recording dates, plans and jotting notes about your garden.  It can be a printed journal divided... Read More →
Bug O’ the Month-Cochineal - Have you ever noticed a prickly pear cactus with white fuzz on it, especially around the thorns? That’s the tell-tale sign of the presence of cochineal scale bugs. And, while... Read More →
Elevated Raised Beds Make Gardening Less of a Chore - Does your back ache after a long day of gardening? Do your knees get sore from kneeling while you plant, weed or harvest your vegetables? Do rabbits routinely nibble your... Read More →

Filed Under: Ask A Master Gardener, Newsletter

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